The Art of Napkin Folding
One of the things that catches my attention when dining out is the way the table is set and how the napkins are fold on the table. Most restaurants, hotels, and many sushi bars display some of the most elegant napkin folds I’ve ever seen. I’ve been to places where I hated to unfold the napkin because it was so well put together. Years ago, I worked in the banquet department of one of New Orleans’ finest hotels and learned the art of napkin folding. It’s one of those things that if you don’t use it, you will lose it. So, every now and then, you have to sit down and refresh your skills. Napkin folding is one of the most fascinating things. To see something as simple as a piece of cloth turned into an fancy face wiper is incredible.
Believe it or not, the first napkins ever used was made by the Spartans and called “apomagdalie” which was made of a lump of dough cut into small pieces that was rolled and kneaded at the table to wipe hands. From then, it was custom to use sliced bread. (Talk about a waste of food!) The Romans’ napkins, known as sudaria and mappae, were small and large in size. Sudarium is Latin for “handkerchief.” The mappa were large cloths which went over the edge of a couch to protect from food spills when guest ate in a reclining position. It was also used to blot lips after eating. It was said that each guest provided their own mappa and would fill it with food or leftovers from a feast. Our commonly known mappa is foil paper, sandwich bags, or “doggy bags”.
As time advanced to the Middle Ages, napkins disappeared and people would use the back of their hands or whatever was available, bread, or cloth to wipe food from their face. The first cloth was given the name “couch” by the French, meaning to lie down. This cloth was laid lengthwise before the master’s place. Around this time napkins were reduced to the size of an average bath towel today.
Napkins went from cloth laid on the table to fabric draped over the left arm of a servant. A maitre d’ wore a napkin draped over the left shoulder as symbol of office and rank. Lower rank servants wore folded napkin lengthwise over their left arm, a custom that was practice in the eighteenth century. Forks were use in the eighteenth century by all society classes and the napkin was reduced in size to approximately 30” x 36”. Today, napkins come in various sizes and styles. It was the French aristocracy who created elaborate napkin etiquette, including lessons on how to use a napkin, when to use it, and how it should unfold when laid on the lap. It was known to be ungentlemanly to use a napkin for wiping the face or scraping the teeth and very vulgar if someone wiped their nose with it. The person who has the highest rank at the table was to unfold their napkin first, then others were allowed to unfold theirs. When shirts had lace fronts, the napkin was tucked into the neck or button hole. In 1774 the French treatise revamped that the napkin cover the front of the body down to the knees.
I always put my napkin in my lap to protect my clothing from accidental food droppings and to wipe my face during my meals.
However you use your napkin tucked at the neck, placed on your lap, or simple lying on the table, napkins are of importance when dining. Check out a few of my napkin folds and put that special touch to your table.